Apong, commonly known as Apo or rice beer, is a traditional alcoholic beverage of Assam belonging to the Mising community. It is prepared using fermentation techniques, and different communities call it by different names. Apong holds great cultural significance as the drink has been incorporated into many festivities, ritualistic occasions, and folk tales.

Alcoholic beverages have played quite a significant role in forming the socio-economic structure of tribal communities in Northeast India over the years. They not only serve as a refreshing drink but also as a traditionally significant asset. Different communities prepare different alcoholic beverages based on the similar raw materials harvested every year.

Cultural History and the Sacred Milk

According to “A: Bang,” the oral history of Mising people, it tells the story of a beautiful fairy, Miti Omum, whose breast milk once spilled, and everywhere the milk spilled, a number of plants appeared and flourished. Engo Takar Karmu, Abo Tani’s wife, also collected Miti Omum’s spilled breast milk. The milk was kept in a jar, but it didn’t change over several days. Curious about the state of breast milk, Engo gathered a few fragrant and pleasant plants.

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The plants were ground into a powder and then formed into cakes by adding water; this product was called E’pop. The cakes were dried, then ground into a fine powder and combined with Miti Omum’s breast milk. On the third day, the mixture produced such a beautiful smell that every being surrounding the area gathered and tasted the product, which is now called Apong.

What’s the Process of Preparing Apong?

It starts with the preparation of starter cakes, or E’pob. Several plant species are used with distinct flavors to prepare these cakes. The plant leaves are collected, sundried for about two weeks, and ground into a fine powder. This powder is then to be added to the rice flour with a small amount of water added in between in order to make a sticky paste. They are turned into large cakes and sun-dried for about 5 days until they turn crisp. The E’pob is then stored in containers, mainly earthen pots, and kept near a fireplace for future use.

Now this is just the beginning of the formation of the popular liquor Apong. They are divided into two types based on the method of preparation.

Types of Apong

The one that is fermented using cooked rice along with E’pob is called Nogin Apong, while the other one is known as Po:ro Apong. It is fermented using sticky cooked rice, E’pob, and the specific ingredient, which is ash of partially burned straw and paddy husk. Po:ro Apong is also called Saimod (Sai meaning Ash and Mod for alcohol). Nogin Apong is mainly prepared for everyday consumption, while Po:ro Apong is prepared only for special occasions like weddings and festivals because it is tedious and labor intensive.

Fermentation and Extraction

The cooked rice, along with the ash, is spread in a banana leaf and mixed into a black mass. The E’pob is then crushed upon it, and the mixture is then stored in an earthen pot called Kili’ng. It is kept for one to two weeks for fermentation and finally filtered out. The filtration is a skillful process done by the experienced women of the community that involves straws and water for extraction. The filtered liquid is consumed as Apong.

Customs and Gender Roles

It is interesting that all the brewing and preparation is done only by the women in every household, as it is considered an integral part of their domestic chores. Most people think that cheerful minds make better Apong. Compared to formal learning, women are experts in this area and have discovered that their life experiences provide them better survival skills.

Villagers believe that if women are allowed to brew in public, it will make the gods angry. This limits the participation of women in the workforce, and they are restricted to accustomed household brewing.

So if you’re planning a visit to Assam soon, make sure to try this delicious drink once made with utter dedication and love.

References:

1. Garh, Namita. (2019). APONG: TRADITIONALLY PREPARED RICE BEER OF THE MISING OF MAJULI IN ASSAM.

2. Pegu, R., Gogoi, J., Tamuli, A. K., & Teron, R. (2013). Apong, an alcoholic beverage of cultural significance of the Mising community of Northeast India. Global Journal of Interdisciplinary Social Sciences, 2(6), 12-17.