Let’s explore the intricacies of the beautiful traditional Assamese Mekhela Chador, how it is crafted from scratch, and how it’s dominating the ethnic fashion all over.
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Just as a saree enhances the beauty of a woman, this two-piece traditional attire from Assam called Mekhela Chador is worn similar to a saree but with an ethnic touch. This attire is enriched with rich silk and intricate handloom.
What is Mekhela Chador?
Mekhela Chador is the traditional attire of Assam draped in the form of a saree; the only difference is that it is a two-piece clothing rather than one single long stretch of cloth. Doesn’t that make it more efficient and comfortable to wear? Well, definitely. One of the beauties of Mekhela Chador is its unique draping style. The upper fabric is called the chador, while the mekhela is the lower portion worn as a skirt around the waist.
The right side pleats of the Mekhela are wrapped around the waist and tucked in. Meanwhile, the chador wraps around the upper part of the body and is tucked into the upper portion of the Mekhela at one end. Traditionally, one would wear a different piece of cloth called the Riha, but these days, a fitting blouse is worn instead.
Rich history of Mekhela Chador
The history of the Mekhla Chador begins in the past, when Assamese women wore the Riha, a single piece of cloth. The riha was wrapped around the upper body and covered the head. The Riha changed over time to become the Mekhla Chador, where the Chador is the upper portion worn over the shoulder and the Mekhla is the lower piece. Riha is still an integral part of weddings and Bihu attire.
What is Mekhela Chador made of?
Mekhela Chadors are often constructed from the well-known Assam Silk, which represents the three main varieties of native wild silk produced in Assam: warm eri, white pat, and golden muga.
Although they are still traditionally handloomed, machine-made items are becoming more and more popular because of their intricate and innovative designs. While pat and eri pieces are prepared from their respective silkworms, muga silk mekhela sador is made from the muga silkworm.
The eri fabric feels warm and soft, in contrast to the stiff and weighty texture of the pat and muga silks, which are generally worn in weddings and functions.
Making of Handloom Mekhela Chador
The Indian Handloom Mekhela Chador is distinguished by its superb craftsmanship and careful attention to detail. The origins of silk production can be traced to the Brahmaputra valley, where the Assam Silk Moth larvae were fed on particular som and sualu leaves, leading to the development of the sericulture technique for silk production.
After bleaching, muga silk can be dyed, and each time it is hand-washed, its luster gets stronger. On the other hand, Bombyx textor silkworms that consume mulberry leaves create pat silk.
The town of Sualkuchi is home to the Assam Silk Industry. It is known as the “Manchester of Assam.”
Different Styles
Mekhela chador is not a monotonous attire; it sticks to a single design, rather it offers a variety of designs, be it different shades or thread work. Some common styles are Guna, i.e., golden embroidery; Kaziranga style with deer and rhino motifs; Gos buta (tree motif); King khap style with designs of two lions facing each other; Phool buta (flower motif); Mourah design (peacock symbol); Japi; and Kalki motifs.
Global appreciation
The Mekhela Chador has also made an appearance in modern clothing, as designers have incorporated this traditional garment into their creations. It has grown in popularity throughout the world and is being used in the fashion industry everywhere, including on red carpets and runways.
Sanjukta Dutta, a popular designer from Assam, has globalized it and presented its elegance in national as well as international fashion shows. Many celebrities have been seen wearing these traditional pieces over time, from Aishwarya Rai Bachchan to Priyanka Chopra.
A symbol of culture and heritage
Crafted with delicacy by talented Assamese artisans, the Assamese Handloom Mekhela Chador is a true work of art. With a focus on authenticity and the greatest level of quality, these craftsmen have perfected their trade and mastered traditional weaving processes. Having been carefully crafted, this ensemble captures the very spirit of Assamese culture and heritage.
Rimjim Bora is a passionate researcher, writer, and storyteller. Being an Assamese, she takes pride in writing the vibrant stories of Assam, sharing its essence beyond the region. Contact Rimjim at rimjim@diversityassam.com.
